Surfing Hollow Days

"In 1961, I made my fourth film - SURFING HOLLOW DAYS.
The world of surfing was changing. Most of the boards were now made of foam, surfers were doing more traveling (often on jets, which were replacing prop planes) and Phil Edwards became the first person to ride a seemingly unridable spot which became known as the Pipeline.
The world outside of surfing was also changing. Gidget Goes Hawaiian played at local drive-in theaters, Dick Dale rocked sold-out Southern California auditoriums and The Beach Boys, who once played during the intermission at one of my earlier films, were about to make their assault on the music charts.
Surfing was becoming "cool." People who didn't know a standing island pullout from a pop out surfboard suddenly wanted to get involved with the surfing "lifestyle." …They still do. I have no idea what the surfing "lifestyle" means.
We simply built our lives around surfing. Hobie made boards. Grubby Clark made foam blanks. I made films. For some of us things worked out well, but our approach towards life and our perception of surfing hasn't changed.
What is or was the surfing "lifestyle?" The only answer I have is to watch SURFING HOLLOW DAYS.
Maybe it's Mickey Dora surfing Hammonds or Kemp Aaberg arching at Rincon or Phil Edwards dazzling the Australians or Pat Curren riding Waimea or, simply, the twinkle in Paul Allen's eye as he tries putting on a "rubber shirt." Because whatever surfing meant in 1961, it still means today. Surfing is surfing." -Bruce Brown Features: Phil Edwards dropping in on the first wave ever at Pipeline, 12-year-old Peter Johnson riding Sunset Beach & Waimea Classic California at Trestles, Rincon, Brooks Street & the Wedge, First surf trip to Florida with Robert August, Mike Haly & Kemp Aaberg.